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Completed metal roof replacement on an Orlando home

Residential Metal Roofing — Orlando Homes

Standing seam and exposed-fastener metal roofs on houses across Orlando, Winter Park, Kissimmee and Altamonte Springs — what each profile does in a hurricane, what it does to your cooling bill, and what it does to the look of the house.

Residential Roofing

More Central Florida homeowners ask about metal every year, and the reasons are sound: it sheds wind better than shingle, reflects heat instead of absorbing it, and outlasts the covering it replaces by a wide margin. The reasons people hesitate are also worth taking seriously, because some are true and some are not. Rain noise, lightning, rust, an HOA that will say no, a house that will look like a barn. This page takes each in turn rather than waving them away.

We install both standing seam and exposed-fastener panel systems on homes, and the choice between them matters more than the brand or the color. One hides every fastener under a raised seam and moves with the heat; the other screws through the face of the panel and is quicker and cheaper to put on. Both are legitimate. Which one belongs on your house depends on roof pitch, how long you plan to own it, and how much maintenance you are willing to schedule.

Standing seam versus exposed fastener on a house

A standing seam panel runs from ridge to eave with its edges folded up and locked together; the clips that hold it to the deck sit inside the seam, so there is no hole through the metal anywhere in the field. The panel can expand and contract along its length as the roof heats and cools, which in Orlando happens every single day, and nothing is fighting that movement. It is the higher-cost, lower-maintenance profile.

An exposed-fastener panel, often sold as 5V crimp, R-panel or a corrugated profile, is screwed to the deck through the face with gasketed screws. It is faster to install and less expensive, and on a simple roof it performs well. The trade-off is thousands of holes, each sealed by a rubber washer that ages in UV. On a house you plan to own for a long time, that maintenance schedule is the deciding factor, and we lay both paths out in the scope.

Hurricane and wind performance

Metal is the covering we would put on our own houses for wind, and the reason is mechanical. A shingle relies on a sealant bond and a few nails to hold a flexible tab against uplift; a metal panel is a continuous sheet clipped or screwed to the deck along its whole length, with an interlocked or lapped edge that wind has trouble getting under. Systems installed here carry a Florida product approval for wind uplift, and the county inspects the deck attachment and underlayment before a panel goes on.

What still fails in a storm is the edge detail and the trim: eave and rake metal that was not fastened to the pattern, ridge cap that was face-screwed into thin air, and panels run over rotten decking that the screws never bit into. That is why the deck inspection on a metal job is not optional, and why our scope spells out the fastening schedule instead of summarizing it.

Heat, cooling bills and the noise question

A metal roof in a light or reflective finish sends a large share of the afternoon sun back where it came from instead of soaking it into the attic. On a house with a west-facing roof and an air handler in the attic, the difference is felt in the second-floor bedrooms and on the power bill through the summer. Standing seam installed over a vented deck or on battens adds an air gap that helps further. Metal also cools off fast after sunset rather than radiating stored heat into the house for hours the way tile and dark shingle do.

On noise: a bare metal roof on an open barn is loud in rain. A residential metal roof over a plywood deck, underlayment, an attic and insulation is not; most owners report it sounds much like the shingle roof did. Lightning is not attracted to metal, and a metal roof does not raise the odds of a strike.

Fasteners, finishes and what ages

Nothing on a house lasts forever, so it is worth knowing what on a metal roof actually wears. On exposed-fastener systems, it is the screws: the neoprene washers under the heads dry out in UV, the screws back out slightly as the panel expands and contracts, and eventually each one is a small hole. The remedy is scheduled: walk the roof, re-drive or replace fasteners, and it stays tight. On standing seam, the wearing parts are the sealant at end laps and penetrations, and the paint finish itself.

Finish matters more here than up north. A galvanized or Galvalume substrate with a factory-applied paint system resists the salt air that reaches inland on a sea breeze and the chalking that UV causes on cheaper coatings. Ask what the substrate and the paint system are, by name; the answer tells you how the roof will look in a decade and whether it will rust at a scratch.

Installing on a house: decking, HOAs and the look

Metal goes over a solid deck with a high-temperature underlayment rated for the heat a panel transfers on a July afternoon; ordinary felt cooks and sticks to the panel. We tear off the existing covering, repair the deck, dry in, and then set panels from the eave up with the trim, closures and flashings the system specifies, including the pipe boots and wall details that decide whether it leaks.

Many Orlando-area HOAs allow metal and specify profile and color; a few do not. Bring the covenant; we will say what fits and supply the product data and samples for your architectural review before anything is ordered. On the look: a standing seam roof in a muted color reads as clean and modern on a ranch or a Mediterranean-style house alike; a bright 5V crimp reads as Old Florida, which suits the older streets of Winter Park. Either works; choose it on purpose. Otherwise, tile is the other premium option.

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Common questions

Not noticeably over a plywood deck. The sound people picture comes from a bare panel on an open pole barn with nothing under it. A house has decking, underlayment, an attic, insulation and drywall between the panel and your ears, and the rain reads as a soft patter, comparable to shingle. If the house has a vaulted ceiling with no attic, tell us; the assembly changes and so does the sound.

Some contractors do it, and some codes allow one layer of shingle under metal. We do not recommend it on a house here. The existing shingle hides the deck, traps heat and moisture between the layers, and any nail that missed a rafter under the old roof is still missing it. Tear-off costs a day; a hidden deck problem under a new metal roof costs the roof.

A properly coated panel resists both. The substrate should be Galvalume or galvanized steel, or aluminum near the coast, with a factory paint system rated for chalk and fade. Bare cut edges and scratches are where rust starts, so trim is hemmed and cuts are touched up on install. Cheaper unpainted or thin-coated panels do fade and can rust at fasteners; the scope names the finish so you know which you are buying.

Favorably, in most cases, because the features the report scores are the ones a new metal roof installs: current-code deck attachment, a sealed secondary water barrier, and a covering with a Florida product approval for wind. The report is a form completed after the final inspection, and any credit is your carrier’s decision. We build to the spec; ask your agent what the report is worth on your policy.

Carefully, and less than on shingle. Standing seam panels can dent if stepped on between the ribs, and painted metal is slippery when wet, which in Orlando means most afternoons. Walk on the flat of the panel over a rafter line, never on the seam, and only in dry conditions. In practice a metal roof should need very little walking; that is part of why people buy it. Call (407) 871-6159 rather than going up to check a fastener yourself.

Not always. Many covenants written for shingle or tile have been amended as standing seam became common on higher-end houses, and boards often object to a picture of a corrugated barn roof rather than to metal itself. Bring the actual language, a sample of a low-profile standing seam panel in a muted color, and product data. If the covenant is explicit, we will point you to tile or shingle instead.

Ready for a straight answer on your roof?

Book an inspection and we’ll document what we find, explain your options, and put a clear scope in writing.